Srinagaris a Muslim city in a Hindu country. It’s Ramadan, the most sacred holiday for Muslims. Fared, the hotel owner, is fasting during the day and invites us to visit the city’s mosque. We visit the largest, which holds an incredible 33,000 worshipers and conducts five twenty-minute prayers a day.
It’s a site to behold. The repetitive movement, standing, sitting, prostrating, the uniform sex of men, the orderly lines and synchronized communal movement— there is a comfort. Considering that Islam broke away with Ishmael, and the Jews with Isaac, there is common ground. But it’s fractured by historic animosity, mistrust, bad blood, the same fight over ethnic and geographic superiority and domination.
At all the Mosques visited in
When they discover that I am an American, there is even a glimmer of realization that the bridge between us is not so divided. I cannot be an abstract enemy when I am barefoot in a white shirt, wearing a Muslim cap. President Obama was mocked by Republicans for bowing out of courtesy to President Hu Jintao of
I feel like a lone ambassador. I am.
At the same time, the Muslims I met at Mosques were more than accommodating to any desire I might have to become Muslim. I was introduced to a French convert and told about its benefits. But this is no different than walking into a church anywhere in the world. Upon leaving for the day, Fared implies the superiority of Islam practice and custom; call it arrogance or pride. “Islam doesn’t have a monopoly on prayer,” I reply smiling.
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